Costume Jewelry Worth Money: Which Brands Sell, and for How Much
By Cody CockrumFull-time reseller since 2017 and owner of Room Swap Consignments in Holly Hill, SC.
Have one? Check what yours is worth, freeIs costume jewelry worth anything? Most of it is worth a few dollars, and that's fine: a $5 tray by the register turns over all year. But one jewelry box from an estate can hold a $150 Haskell necklace next to a $2 pair of Avon earrings, and they look alike from across the room. The money is in sorting before you tag. This guide goes brand by brand, then shows how to spot a good piece with no name on it at all.
The prices below are what these pieces really bring in person, at a booth, a mall case or an estate sale, with every stone in place. The best-ever online sale for a rare piece is higher; these are the everyday numbers.
Costume Jewelry Brands Worth Money
Top tier: pull these first
| Brand | What it is | Typical piece |
|---|---|---|
| Miriam Haskell | Hand-wired seed pearls and glass on gold-tone filigree, 1920s on | $50–$250 |
| Schreiner (New York) | Bold 1950s–70s pieces, stones often set upside down; often unsigned | $50–$250 |
| Eisenberg Original | Heavy 1930s–40s pieces, big clear stones, some sterling | $75–$300 |
| Eisenberg Ice | Later clear rhinestone line | $30–$120 |
| Hobé | Ornate stones on filigree; 1940s sterling pieces bring the most | $30–$125 |
| Marcel Boucher | Fine casting, 1940s–60s figurals and flowers, stamped with a number | $40–$150 |
| Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) | Mostly 1960s rhinestones, almost all unsigned, known by construction | $35–$150 |
| Trifari Jelly Belly | 1940s sterling animal pins with a clear Lucite belly | $150–$400 |
Typical ranges as of October 2026. Prices vary by area and condition. Snap yours with PocketPrice to see what it'll bring near you.
Solid sellers: card them and tag them
| Brand | What it is | Typical piece |
|---|---|---|
| Trifari | Crisp gold-tone and rhinestone pieces; crown over the T on many | $15–$75 |
| Corocraft | Coro's better line; Coro Duette two-part pins sell here too | $20–$60 |
| Coro | Made by the millions; plain pieces are tray items | $5–$30 |
| Weiss | Bright rhinestones, smoky and multicolor stones, flowers and trees | $20–$80 |
| Kramer of New York | Rhinestone sets and Christian Dior-licensed pieces | $20–$75 |
| Hattie Carnegie | Fashion house jewelry, figural pins with enamel | $25–$100 |
| Sherman (Canada) | 1950s–70s, dense high-quality crystals; top pieces sell like the top tier | $50–$200 |
| Napier | Silver-tone chains, charm bracelets, bold 1970s–80s pieces | $10–$40 |
| Lisner | Leaf pins and colored plastic “jelly” stones | $10–$35 |
| Marvella | Faux pearls, often on the original card | $8–$30 |
| Monet | Clean gold-tone chains and earrings, very common | $5–$30 |
Typical ranges as of October 2026. Prices vary by area and condition. Snap yours with PocketPrice to see what it'll bring near you.
Common and volume: the $5 tray
| Brand | What it is | Typical piece |
|---|---|---|
| Sarah Coventry | Home-party jewelry from the 1950s on; lots of it | $3–$20 |
| Emmons | Sarah Coventry's sister home-party line | $3–$15 |
| Park Lane | Home-party jewelry, 1955 to today | $5–$20 |
| 1928 Jewelry Co. | Vintage-look pieces made from 1968 on, not from 1928 | $5–$20 |
| Avon | Gift jewelry, brooches and earrings, often in the box | $2–$12 |
| Unsigned modern gold-tone or beads | Mall and department store pieces, 1980s on | $1–$5 |
Typical ranges as of October 2026. Prices vary by area and condition. Snap yours with PocketPrice to see what it'll bring near you.
Where the Mark Is and What It Looks Like
Most signed pieces carry the name in small raised or stamped letters on the back. Use a loupe or your phone's camera zoomed in. Look in these spots:
- Brooches: a small raised oval or rectangle (collectors call it a cartouche) soldered to the back, or stamped near the edge or on the pin bar.
- Necklaces and bracelets: on the clasp, the tag of metal next to the clasp, or the hook ring at the end of the chain.
- Clip and screw-back earrings: on the clip itself or the flat pad behind the front.
- Miriam Haskell: pieces from before the late 1940s were usually not marked at all; later ones have an oval plate on the back or a tag by the clasp.
- A © next to the name usually means about 1955 or later, when jewelry designs started to be copyrighted.
For a closer look at brooch backs and dating by the clasp, see the vintage brooch value guide.
The metal marks matter more than the brand
- STERLING or 925: solid silver. A sterling piece is worth at least its silver and often a lot more. Many 1940s Trifari, Coro and Hobé pieces are sterling because base metals went to the war.
- 1/20 12K GF or GF: gold-filled, a thin layer of real gold over brass. Wears well and sells better than plated, but there is little gold in it to melt.
- 10K, 14K, 18K: solid gold, not costume jewelry at all. Pull it out and price it by weight.
- HGE, GP, EP: plated. No metal value; price by brand and look.
If you're not sure whether a piece is sterling or plated, read sterling silver vs. silver plate.
Mexican and Scandinavian silver
Two kinds of silver jewelry deserve their own shelf. Mexican silver from Taxco, marked MEXICO, 925 or TAXCO, often with a maker's initials and a small eagle stamp on pieces from about 1948 to 1980, sells for $20–$150 by weight and design; heavy cuffs and named makers bring more. Scandinavian silver from Norway, Denmark and Sweden, marked 925S, 830S or STERLING, includes the bright enamel flower and leaf pins from Norway at $30–$100 and modernist pieces at $50–$200. Georg Jensen and David-Andersen pieces can bring far more and are worth researching one by one.
How to Sort a Jewelry Box in 10 Minutes
- Dump it on a towel under good light. Untangle chains as you go, never by pulling.
- Pull anything heavy for its size. Heft is the first sign of sterling, gold or a good maker.
- Check every clasp and back for metal marks (STERLING, 925, 10K, 14K, GF). Those go in their own pile first.
- Read the names. Put top-tier and solid-seller names in a second pile.
- Flip over unsigned rhinestone pieces and look for prongs, open backs and black or bright silver finishes. Good ones join the second pile.
- Hold stones up to the light. Set aside pieces with dark, cloudy or missing stones.
- Everything left is the tray. Bag matching earrings together and price the tray by the piece or by the bag.
Signs of Value With No Mark
Plenty of good costume jewelry was never signed. Juliana, early Haskell and much of Schreiner left the factory with no name. Here's what a better unsigned piece looks like:
- Prong-set stones: tiny metal claws hold each stone. Glued stones in flat cups point to cheaper work.
- A japanned or rhodium back: japanned is a black enamel finish common on 1930s–50s pieces; rhodium is a bright silver-white plating that doesn't tarnish. Both mean someone spent money on it.
- Heft: a good piece feels heavier than it looks.
- Unfoiled and layered stones: open-backed stones that let light through, art glass, and stones set on top of other stones (a Juliana trait).
- Hand-wired beads: beads wired one by one onto a filigree frame, not strung or glued, is the Haskell look.
- Art Deco design: 1920s–30s geometric shapes, marcasite set in sterling, French or Czech glass paste, and fine filigree. Check deco pieces for a STERLING mark first.
A lot of unsigned pieces get called Juliana or Haskell that aren't. If you can't match the construction, price it as a good unsigned piece, $10–$35, and let the buyer decide. For necklaces, earrings and bracelets in more detail, see the vintage costume jewelry identification and price guide.
Condition Killers
- Green corrosion around stones or on the back: verdigris from moisture. It spreads, and it usually means more stones will fall. Price at a third or less.
- Missing stones: one missing stone takes off about a third; several makes it a craft piece at $1–$5.
- Dark or dead foil: stones that look gray or cloudy have lost the mirror backing, usually from water. A few lower the price; a lot of them make it a parts piece.
- Worn plating showing gray or brass metal on the front.
- Broken clasps or clips, and single earrings. A lone earring is a craft item.
Pricing Lots vs. Singles at a Booth
Not everything deserves its own tag. A tag on a $3 pin costs you time you'll never get back, and a $60 Weiss lost in a $5 bowl costs you $55.
| How you sell it | What goes there | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Bowl or tray, one price | Unsigned modern, Avon, Monet, common Coro | $2–$5 each |
| Bagged lot | Craft pieces, single earrings, broken chains | $5–$15 a bag |
| Carded with a tag | Signed solid sellers and good unsigned pieces | $10–$75 |
| Locked case | Top tier, sterling, Mexican and Scandinavian silver | $40 and up |
| Whole box, unsorted (buying) | Estate box you haven't picked through | $20–$60 |
Typical ranges as of October 2026. Prices vary by area and condition. Snap yours with PocketPrice to see what it'll bring near you.
- Write the maker on the card. “Signed Weiss” or “Sterling, Mexico” sells the piece before the shopper turns it over.
- Sell sets together. A matching necklace and earrings bring more than the two apart.
- Lock up anything over $40. Jewelry is small and easy to pocket.
- Sell the top tier online if it sits. A Haskell or Jelly Belly finds its collector faster on a site where people search the name. Everything under about $25 sells better in person.
- Clean gently. A soft brush and a barely damp cloth. Never soak rhinestones; water gets behind the stones and kills the foil.
Related Guides
See the vintage brooch value guide for Christmas tree pins and dating by the clasp, the vintage costume jewelry identification and price guide for necklaces and earrings, and what jewelry and watches are worth for fine jewelry and today's local numbers.
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Quick answers
Is costume jewelry worth anything?
Most costume jewelry sells for $2 to $15 a piece at a booth or estate sale. Signed pieces from Trifari, Weiss, Kramer and Hattie Carnegie usually bring $15 to $75, and Miriam Haskell, Schreiner, Eisenberg, Boucher and Juliana pieces bring $40 to $300. Anything marked STERLING or 925 is worth at least its silver.
What costume jewelry brands are worth the most money?
The top names are Miriam Haskell, Schreiner, Eisenberg Original, Hobé, Marcel Boucher, Juliana (DeLizza & Elster) and Trifari Jelly Belly pins. In person most of these sell for $40 to $250 a piece, and a Trifari Jelly Belly in sterling usually brings $150 to $400.
How much is Weiss jewelry worth?
Signed Weiss rhinestone pieces usually sell for $20 to $80 in person, with full sets and big multicolor brooches at the top. Fake Weiss signatures are common, so check for prong-set stones and good, even plating before paying signed prices.
How can you tell if unsigned costume jewelry is valuable?
Turn it over. Prong-set stones instead of glued ones, a black japanned or bright rhodium back, open-backed or layered stones, hand-wired beads and a piece that feels heavy for its size all point to a better maker. Good unsigned pieces usually sell for $10 to $35, and confirmed Juliana for $35 to $150.
How do you identify Art Deco costume jewelry?
Art Deco pieces from the 1920s and 1930s have geometric shapes, marcasite set in sterling, French or Czech glass paste stones and fine filigree. Check the back and clasp for a STERLING or 925 mark first. Deco sterling and marcasite pieces usually sell for $30 to $125 in person.
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